How Far Can You Ride on an Electric Bike Charge? is probably the number one question we get asked. And because there are so many variables, it is a difficult question to answer. It’s like asking, “How long is a piece of string?” But as a guide, use the following numbers:
- When riding on gently undulating paved surfaces and applying a reasonable degree of leg energy, you can expect to use around 7.5 watt-hours per kilometre.
- When riding on hilly and windy off-road trails, where you often use higher levels of pedal assist and sometimes also a thumb throttle, you can expect to use around 12 watt-hours per kilometre.
So, if all of your riding is going to be on paved surfaces and you never expect to ride more than 30 km (which may take you 1 1/2 hours), then a battery size that would be adequate for you would be 300 watt-hours (30 km at 7.5 watt-hours per km = 225 watt-hours, but 300 watt-hours would give you some reserve).
On the other hand, if you want to tackle a 50km trail ride—one that involves some steep-ish hills and tight turns—then you would want an eBike battery size of at least 600 watt-hours (50 km x 12 watt-hours per km = 600 watt-hours).
How do I Calculate the Watt-Hours in a Battery?
Nowadays, most e-bike suppliers specify the size of their batteries in watt-hours. However, if they have specified their battery size in amp-hours—for example, 16Ah—then multiply that number by the voltage of the bike’s electric system (most are 36 volts). So, 16 x 36 = 576 watt-hours.
How do I Maximise the Distance I can Ride on a Charge?
How to ride an electric bike effectively is a very common question new owners ask us. First, use as much leg energy as possible. Your legs have up to 200 watts of continuous power, compared to 300 watts of constant power in common e-bike motors. In other words, the motor is a little less powerful than your legs. So, the more you use your legs, the less energy will be required from the motor, and the lower your power consumption will be.
Second, always use the mechanical (derailleur) gears first, followed by the battery assist. In other words, if you see a steep hill coming up, change down into 3rd or 2nd gear on your derailleur, then increase your pedal assist level.
MeloYelo e-bikes have five levels of pedal assist. If you’re riding on flat surfaces, you should do most of your riding in level 1 or level 2 of pedal assist, as these levels drain your battery the least. If you’re riding up a hill, you might boost your pedal assist to level 3, level 4, or even level 5, but if you do, be sure to change the level back down as soon as you reach the top of the hill.
Shift into Lower Gear before Stopping
A common mistake made by novice riders is not changing down into a lower mechanical gear before coming to a standstill. The higher the gear your bike is in, the harder it is to pedal from a standstill. So, as you’re approaching a stop, shift down into third, second or even first gear so that the bike is easy to pedal when you want to get moving again. This is a helpful tip for conserving battery energy, for those whose e-bikes are fitted with a throttle. Many people who have throttles and use their throttle to get moving from a standstill fail to understand how much drain on the battery they’re causing. Such a drain would be largely unnecessary if it had shifted into a lower gear before coming to a stop.
Conclusion
A few years ago, three Kiwi ladies, all over 65 years old, rode from North Cape to Bluff on MeloYelo e-bikes. Towards the end of their journey, one of them was able to ride 95 kilometres and only use a quarter of their battery charge. Her secrets were:
- Maximising the energy from her legs while keeping the pedal assist in the lowest setting, most of the time
- Knowing how to use her mechanical gears effectively, maintaining a good cadence at all times
- Boosting her pedal assist only when necessary, and then returning to a low level of assist as soon as possible.
Follow these tips, and you will, too, not only run greater distances on a single battery charge but also get fitter.
